The women's suit: how to wear it for a flawless look

In a time when gender equality is still a work in progress, fashion can and should carry a political message. Since the 1960s, the women’s suit has taken on this role, becoming the first elegant women's ensemble, embraced by fashion and film icons. Today, it is a staple in strong, personality-driven women's collections.

Want to learn how to style a modern women's suit? Here are some styling and pairing tips!

A brief history and features of the women’s suit

Elegant and classic, the women's suit is easy to define, as—despite its many variations—it essentially consists of two pieces: a jacket paired with either a skirt or, more commonly today, trousers, both featuring a formal cut.

The counterpart to the men's elegant suit, the women's suit gained prominence in 1885 when a tailor designed one for Queen Alexandra (the wife of Edward VII of England). However, its lines were quite different from today’s versions—stiff and featuring a long skirt.

It was Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent who revolutionized this garment. Chanel made it more comfortable with a single seam at the back and a shorter skirt, while Saint Laurent introduced the women's trouser suit, which became a symbol of female empowerment in the 1960s.

Their lessons live on in modern fashion, with both versions being worn in professional, formal, and elegant settings without sacrificing a touch of sensuality.

How to wear the suit based on body shape

Elegant women’s trouser suits are not limited to exclusive events like high-end ceremonies or galas. They can be worn in various settings, usually those with a medium to high level of formality.

Before deciding how to style them, it’s essential to choose the best model for your body shape. While not a strict rule, here are key guidelines to enhance your figure:

• Skirt and trouser length:long skirts are tricky to style and work best for taller figures. If you're not very tall, opt for a shorter skirt, just above the knee. Wide-leg trousers, on the other hand, are not ideal for very tall individuals as they further elongate the silhouette.
• Jacket length: an important factor in flattering your shape. Longer jackets suit women with pronounced hips as they elongate the figure. Slimmer body types can experiment with cropped jackets.
• Fabric softness: the material choice is personal but should also complement your body structure. Those with a slender build can opt for structured fabrics, while those with more curves will feel more comfortable in softer fabrics.
• Patterns and colors: monochrome suits are a classic, but there are plenty of patterned options, especially in youthful elegant suits. Striped patterns require attention: horizontal stripes can make a fuller figure appear wider, while vertical stripes and darker tones are more flattering.

The suit in elegant and formal contexts

Born from formal fashion, the suit thrives in settings that require a level of elegance, such as weddings, baptisms, graduations, or important business meetings where professionalism is key.

But how should this women’s jacket-and-trousers ensemble be styled? Here’s a simple guide based on the occasion:

The suit in business settings

A symbol of women’s empowerment, wearing a suit conveys independence and authority. That’s why it’s a staple in office wear and professional formal attire.

The jacket can besingle-breasted or double-breasted—the latter being more formal. Consider the context before choosing.

Neutral, subdued tones work best, ideally in dark shades like black, gray, and navy for a professional look. Avoid excessive color matching: balance the suit with a contrasting inner layer, such as a blouse, silk top, or light-colored shirt (white, cream, soft blue, or gray).

While monochrome is common, subtle patterns like pinstripes or Prince of Wales checks add a touch of classic elegance. If opting for a patterned layer, keep the suit solid-colored for balance.

Accessories should be discreet: thin necklaces, small earrings, delicate bracelets, and elegant watches maintain a professional aesthetic. Pair with a structured handbag in a matching shade or a sleek business case.

For shoes, opt for pointed or rounded-toe pumps for an elongated silhouette. Alternatively, go for Mary Janes, slingbacks with a subtle strap, or elegant leather loafers for comfort.

Suits for ceremonies and elegant events

Compared to business settings, a suit for ceremonies should be less rigid but still refined.

The biggest difference is in color choices. While office attire favors dark hues, event suits can embrace vibrant yet sophisticated shades like bright blue, pastel pink, peach, magenta, burnt red, lavender, mint green, or teal. Avoid overly bold tones to maintain a polished look.

Avoid total white at weddings, as it is traditionally reserved for the bride. Total black can also be too stark. If you love these colors, break them up with contrasting shades for a more balanced appearance.

The jacket is a key element, often paired with trousers, as seen in recent trends. It should be well-fitted but comfortable, never too tight around the arms or chest. Tailored or high-quality, flexible fabrics work best. Both single- and double-breasted styles are appropriate, with the former often worn open to showcase a stylish blouse or silk top.

A fantastic pairing for an elegant women’s suit is a vest (matching the jacket), creating a sophisticated three-piece ensemble.

When choosing trousers, go for slim, straight-leg styles with a front crease for a classic touch, or opt for wide-leg or slightly flared cuts with a well-pressed pleat to enhance the waistline.

Regardless of body type, the jacket should not extend beyond the hip line to avoid a dated look. Cropped jackets are also a chic option, while trousers should reach at least the ankle, ensuring a polished finish.

Can a suit be worn in casual settings?

A symbol of elegant, professional fashion, the suit may seem out of place in casual settings. However, fashion rules are meant to be broken, leading to stylish casual-chic looks.

For brunch, a city stroll, or a relaxed lunch, opt for a mismatched suit—different-colored jacket and trousers. Brighter hues are acceptable but should be well-balanced.

Choose either a bold-patterned jacket with simple trousers or vice versa. In these settings, a single-breasted jacket is preferred, worn open for a laid-back look.

Pair slim or regular-fit trousers (like chinos, even cropped at the ankle) with a patterned or floral blouse, a simple knit top, or even a crop top for a trendy touch.

Accessories and shoes can be more playful: jewelry can be more fun yet classy, while handbags can be more relaxed, like crossbody or tote bags.

For footwear, try Mary Janes, pumps with a subtle heel, casual Oxfords, or even stylish sneakers for a modern twist.